THE FAROE ISLANDS

Scattered like a solitary arrowhead between Scotland and Iceland, the eighteen islands of the Faroes have been designated as ‘a self-governing community within the kingdom of Denmark’. With a population of about 45,000, there are twice as many sheep on the islands than people (faroes means ‘sheep’), but the Faroese have nevertheless developed a strong sense of individualism, speaking their own language and retaining an awareness of the legends and traditions that shaped the lives of their ancestors. With more than 1,100km of coastline, fishing remains the principal industry.

Weather permitting
It is the weather that really controls the islands. Moderated by the Gulf Stream, temperatures rarely drop below freezing, even in winter, but conditions are always unpredictable. With rain likely to fall 280 days a year, a fine morning could be followed by torrential hailstorms. ‘Weather permitting’ is possibly the most common Faroese phrase. Whilst this should be no reason to avoid setting out on a hike, it is important to take precautions that might be neglected in less dramatic countries. Because weather conditions fluctuate throughout the year, the Faroes are very suitable for ‘off-peak’ walking.

Walking in the Faroe Islands
All the islands have much to see: Kalsoy, where villages are linked by tunnels; Sandoy’s black basalt sand dunes; the rocking stones of Eysturoy; and the diverse peaty farmland of Su|eroy. The beauties of the islands can only be fully appreciated by hiking around them.

Most paths originate from the days before paved roads, and much of the more rugged scenery is accessible only on foot. There are footpaths on all the islands, some marked with cairns which function as inland lighthouses to aid walkers’ navigation when shifting fogs descend.

Tórshavn
Tórshavn, on the largest island of Streymoy, is one of the smallest capital cities in the world, and is home to about 16,000 people. Situated in the centre of the island group, it is an excellent base for walking holidays. The town is named ‘Thor’s Harbour’ after the Norse god of thunder, wind and natural disasters. Worshipped by the Faroese before the arrival of Christianity, Thor was associated with the triumph of the common man and a readiness to defend the islands from foreign invaders. Today, however, Tórshavn is a peaceful town, a maze of lanes and narrow passages, with colourful wooden houses jumbled over the hillside, some dating from the 16th century. There are a number of museums and, notably, the parks and gardens contain the only trees in the Faroes. A walk on the Tinganes peninsula beside the town is generally thought to be enough to endear every visitor to the Faroes.

Kirkjubøur
Tórshavn was once the site of the Viking Thing, or Parliament, and an easy walk over the mountain to Kirkjubøur reveals that the area has long been the cultural and religious heart of the Faroes. Here, on the southern tip of Streymoy, are the ruins of the St Magnus cathedral, built in the Gothic style in medieval times, but never finished.

Two more historical churches are nearby, as well as Roykstovan, a 900 year old farmhouse that has been home to more than sixteen generations of the same family. It is of split-log construction, made from timber believed to have drifted over from Norway. Traditional houses like this can be seen throughout the islands, with stone walls facing the prevailing wind, wooden walls sealed with tar, and a turf roof to retain the heat.

Islands of birds
The island of Nólsoy protects Tórshavn from the worst of the elements, and has the largest colony of storm petrels in the world. These can only be seen at night, when they return from the sea to feed their young in their underground nests. Over 3.5 million birds are thought to nest in the Faroes. Vestmanna bird cliffs in northern Streymoy is the best-known breeding site, its towering cliffs teeming with fulmars, puffins, kittiwakes, razorbills and guillemots.

Mykines and Vágar
Mykines is a small island to the far west of the cluster. Its single village, reached by a hundred steps from the jetty, has only eighteen inhabitants. Walkers can visit a number of local features, such as Steinskógurin (the Stone forest) or Lundaland (Puffin land), an islet connected to Mykines by a bridge over a deep ravine.

Vágar is the island beside Mykines. The picturesque farming village of Gásadalur has no roads or shops, or even any regular boat links. Mail and supplies are still carried over the mountain from Bøur three times a week. The fantastic scenery, however, is well worth the effort of following the steep path. A large hollow near the village is known as Risaporith (the Giant’s footstep), and is evidence of the fight between two giants who lived on Vágar and Mykines long ago.

The Vágar giant lost the battle and, in order to keep his life, promised to give the inhabitants of Mykines a piece of driftwood, a bottle-nosed whale and a visit by a rare bird every year. When people complained that the driftwood was bent, and that the whale was ugly, these gifts did not arrive the following year. Since then, locals have refused to say anything bad about their remaining gift, the gannet, which nests nowhere else in the Faroes.

Chain dances
Locals and visitors are entertained by the profusion of orchestras, musical groups, choirs, art exhibitions and plays that make up the lively artistic culture of the Faroes. Over 70,000 verses of the traditional epic ballads, kvæ…ir, are still remembered, principally when sung during a chain dance. Once common throughout Scandinavia, chain dances exist in their original form only in the Faroes. Participants link arms, chanting the sagas, endlessly repeating the chorus and rhythmically dancing the steps, which change according to the mood of the narrative.

© Walk Europe
Walk Europe is a guidebook which provides holiday ideas for single travellers, couples, families and groups of all ages and abilities.

Buy the full Walk Europe guide from Amazon