Steaming in Snowdonia?

Picture courtesy of the Welsh Tourist Board

October again - time for our annual hill walking weekend. Pembrokeshire’s Preseli and the Coastal Path last year was great but, by common consent, not hilly enough for these boys. So a return to Snowdonia – could we find something a bit different? Can’t remember who suggested the Moelwyn’s - not huge but perfectly formed: great views, not many people and a fair smattering of industrial archaeology on the way. The medieval manor house, Plas y Dduallt, was a promising start, the “Welsh breakfast” encouraging, the main course beckoning at the end of the garden.



Of course, a rambler’s life is rarely that direct… From the front door, we joined the path alongside the line of the Ffestiniog Railway, turned left (North) at Tanygrisiau reservoir up to Stwlan (pronounced stew-lan) dam... the upper part of the hydro electric scheme that flooded the original Ffestiniog line and set in motion one of the longest legal battles in Britain.



A wild goat’s horn, not for the squeamish, fresh with blood at the blunt end, was photographed, clear evidence of goat rustling … a few days later the local warden explained this was par for the course in the rutting season! A sad looking one-horned goat has since been seen sulking in the foothills.



From the edge of the dam we clambered upwards to the top of Moelwyn Mawr … Mawr means big and at 770m is 60m higher than Moelwyn Bach (Bach means little). A big blustery brute of a whaleback clambered with little finesse.



From the ridge the views were brilliant – endless coastline and estuary to the West and mountains in every other direction.

A scrambling ridge walk over Moelwyn Mawr and Craigysgafn to Moelwyn Bach. A few hunting dogs were scouring the mountainside a thousand feet below, but maybe we won’t see them next year?

Fortified with our packed lunches, we strolled down the gentle incline to the West, views to the sea ahead of us all the way. Back in the valley, streams led through the forest to the beautiful Llyn Mair (Lake Mary) and eventually to Tan y Bwlch railway station. Our host had timed our arrival impeccably – just in time for a cup of tea and cake before boarding the last train of the day up to Blaenau Ffestiniog.



Saturday’s walk always ends in a pub, but this was much better … the buffet car of a steam train. Great beer and an action replay of our first few miles walking.



What’s more, the train took us back down the line and dropped us off at Campbell’s Platform, our host’s private halt just 50 yards from the back door.

We finished the walk in style and tucked in to a sumptuous dinner with a roaring log fire in the 15th century dining hall.

Pete Farrand
Marlow

For more information about Plas y Dduallt click below.

Further details