THE WESTERN WAY

This trail captures the essence of western Ireland, from panoramic sea views to boggy green land and ruined abbeys, exploring the two counties of Galway and Mayo.

Beginning in western Galway, near Oughterard on the shores of Lough Corrib, the Western Way wends north-west through Connemara, and then continues towards the northern tip of the Mayo peninsula. The way covers 170km in total, ending just east of Ballina. If walkers are keen to extend the route, part of the Foxford Way links in, leading nearer to Lough Conn and the town of Castlebar. The Castlebar Walking Festival, held every June or July for four days, makes a good excuse to visit the region.

In Connemara, the landscape is dominated by mountains, such as the Twelve Bens and the Maamturks. However, the walking itself is of a medium grade, so visitors get to enjoy the view of the high ground rather than tackle any strenuous climbing. Coastal views dominate the whole of the route, from the fjord at Killary, to the fishing off Clew Bay, and on to the puffin holes at Downpatrick Head.

Warming currents
The western seaboard of Ireland is washed by the Atlantic Ocean and warmed by the Gulf Stream, making the region quite wet yet never too hot or too cold. April to October is the most popular time of year for walking, as the climate is slightly more dependable in spring and summer, and this westerly region has a high number of daylight hours. In County Mayo much of the route follows the old bog roads, and the wetness underfoot, however sunny it is, will be a reminder of the characteristic Irish peatland.

Galway and Connemara
The Western Way in County Galway is dominated by Lough Corrib and Connemara National Park. The lough, the largest in the Republic, flows into an estuary in Galway Bay and is very good for salmon and trout fishing. Aughanure castle, near Oughterard, is a 15th century tower house which offers panoramic views of the lough.

Connemara National Park is to the north-west of the lough, and to reach it the Western Way travels upstream of the River Joyce, before climbing to a mountain pass. The Twelve Bens, or Na Beanna Beola, are named after the mythical giant Beola, and several of the peaks fall within the boundaries of the park. A detour from the trail enables walkers to explore the area, which offers excellent hikes in its own right. The visitor centre is open from April to mid October, though the park itself is open all year round.

The Western Way leaves Connemara and County Galway at Killary harbour, the only Irish fjord. This narrow 16km inlet was carved by a glacier to a depth of thirteen fathoms, and is now a peaceful waterway enhanced by the Aasleagh falls at its head. It is possible to contain the Western Way within County Galway, so that instead of continuing north into Mayo, steps are retraced east and then south, skirting Lough Derryclare on the west and walking close to the coast and the islands.

Mayo
Once into Mayo, the route winds its way northwards from Killary and Leenan through the Sheefry hills to Croagh Patrick. This mountain is named after Ireland’s patron saint as there is a legend that he fasted on its summit for forty days. A small modern chapel perched on the peak commemorates St Patrick, and offers clear views of glacial Clew Bay with its tear drop islands.

In the north-east of Mayo, legends continue with Doonfeeney graveyard near the quiet village of Ballycastle and Poulnachantinny puffin hole off Downpatrick Head. Fairies are said to frequent the ring fort near the graveyard, perhaps because of the ancient standing stone among the graves. The puffin hole is claimed to have been formed during a fight between St Patrick and the Devil: St Patrick hit the Devil so hard he was pushed through the rocks to make a hole, and took a piece of the headland with him, which is now the Doonbristy stack of rocks.

From Killala to Ballina, along the estuary of the River Moy, three ruined abbeys record the religious struggles between Protestants and Catholics. Rathfran is a 13th century Dominican abbey, Moyne dates from the 15th century and Rosserk is a Franciscan friary. At Ballina, walkers have completed most of the Western Way, though for the enthusiastic, there is an option of continuing east to Lough Talt and the official finish.

The Foxford Way
This 86km trail leads from near Lough Talt to the town of Foxford, in the shadow of the Ox Mountains to the east and Nephin Mountain in the west. It loops around Lough Cullin, as well as following the southerly edge of Lough Conn. The scenery in the east of County Mayo is as unspoilt and beautiful as that of the west, with the atmosphere of the loughs contrasting to the coastal views.

Castlebar Walking Festival
The Portwest Castlebar International Four Days’ Walks has been established for over thirty years. As a member of the International Marching League, it is one of the biggest walking festivals, and participants come from over thirty countries. Walks include road routes of 10, 20 or 40km, as well as cross-country rambles of 30km over the nearby surrounding countryside.

© Walk Europe
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