ST CUTHBERT’S WAY

This walk is inspired by the life of St Cuthbert, 7th century Bishop of Lindisfarne, teacher of Christianity and performer of miracles.

St Cuthbert’s Way is a cross-border trail from Melrose in the Scottish Borders eastwards to Lindisfarne on the coast of Northumbria in England. St Cuthbert’s legacy turned the north of England into an important pilgrimage centre in the Middle Ages and the way carries on that tradition. Open since 1996, it is 100km long and connects to the Southern Upland Way at Melrose. It is an historic journey, uncovering many layers of history, and introducing wayfarers to the picturesque Eildon and Cheviot hills, and the River Tweed. As the east of Scotland is generally drier and sunnier than the west, the settled spells from March to June, as well as September and October, are ideal for the walk.

St Cuthbert
The accomplishments of St Cuthbert’s life are almost outweighed by the cult status bestowed upon him because of events after his death. Born around the year 634, St Cuthbert was educated by Irish monks at Melrose, before becoming prior at Lindisfarne. At the priory he became renowned for his prophesies and for performing miracles. He subsequently lived in solitude on the island of Inner Farne, interrupted only by pilgrims seeking the benefits of his miraculous powers. In 684 he returned from Inner Farne to become the Bishop of Lindisfarne, dying only three years later.

Eleven years after his death, his casket was opened and the body was found to be in perfect condition. This lead to his beatification, and an ensuing veneration which surpassed that of his lifetime. In 875, after a second Viking raid on Lindisfarne, the monks were forced to uproot, and, respecting Cuthbert’s last wishes, took his body with them to try and find it a peaceful resting place. A series of burials and exhumations finally ended when his body was interred in Durham cathedral in 999. In 1104, however, 418 years after his death, the casket was opened again and the body was found to be still uncorrupted. The last time the casket was opened was in 1827, but only a skeleton covered in decaying robes remained. Although the designs on the garments matched the accounts from 1104, some argued that the real body of St Cuthbert lay elsewhere.

Scott’s View
Between Melrose and St Boswells are the heather-covered Eildon peaks, consisting of the Little Hill, the Mid Hill and the North Eildon Hill. Composed of basalt and old red sandstone, the hills are brightened by fragrant yellow gorse in the spring and summer. With peat bogs, resident red grouse and woodland birds, the hills are a pleasant start to the walk and are relatively easy to climb. There is also plenty of history to explore, from sacred Celtic shroves to the site of a Roman signal station.

Just outside Dryburgh, on a bend above the River Tweed, is a parking spot which is said to be Sir Walter Scott’s favourite part of the hills. Folklore recalls that the horses from his funeral procession automatically stopped there on the journey to his grave at Dryburgh abbey, and it has since been called Scott’s View.

The Cheviots
The middle part of the journey, from Cessford castle to Wooler, benefits from the constant backdrop of the Cheviot hills. There is also Wideopen Hill and Grubbit Law, which, at 268 and 310m respectively, are some the highest climbs of the journey, and offer a view spanning from the Eildon hills to Yetholm Loch ahead. Situated near the village of Morebattle, and within a few miles of the Cheviot hills, is Cessford castle, the ancient baronial residence of the Kers, one of the 15th and 16th centuries’ warring families from the Borders. A ridge walk takes the path to the village of Kirk Yetholm which was the gypsies’ base in Scotland for over 300 years. Between the early 1500s and the death of the last Queen of the Gypsies in 1833, it was where gypsies congregated to appoint a king and queen and hold their coronation. Near the Pennine Way, the path crosses the border into the moorlands of Northumberland National Park.

Holy Island
The first sight of Lindisfarne comes at St Cuthbert’s cave. On reaching the coast, the route culminates in a walk across to the island, either by taking the causeway, or the older Pilgrims’ Way across the sands which is marked by a series of stakes. Both Lindisfarne’s Norman priory, which stands on the site of St Cuthbert’s ancient monastery, and the island’s castle can be explored.

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