THE ALPES-MARITIMES

Majestic mountain scenery, mysterious prehistoric rock carvings and ancient hilltop villages are some of the treats in store for those who venture beyond the glitz and extravagance of the Côte d’Azur.

The beautiful coastline that gave the Côte d’Azur region its name is so well known that the mountainous countryside it borders is often neglected. Yet the exotic architecture, golden beaches and general pizzazz of the French Riviera can seem brash when compared with the stately beauty of the Maritime Alps that rise beyond Monaco, Nice and Cannes.

The Alpes-Maritimes
From the sun-drenched shoreline of the Riviera to the high peaks of the Cime du Gélas (3,143m) and Le Grand Capelet (2,935m), the Alpes-Maritimes offers breathtaking scenery. The land can be divided roughly into three: the frenetic coast, the quiet and secluded middle country, and the highlands.

In the central middle country, ancient hamlets and villages cling to peaks and rocky spurs, sometimes in seemingly impossible places. Built partly for defence, these close-knit settlements also benefited the feudal lords by keeping the population together and protecting valuable fertile land. Olive plantations cover some of the hillsides, while once-cultivated terraces have been taken over by forest, bearing witness to the depopulation of the interior. Medieval castle and citadel ruins lie here and there, and humble churches or chapels often hide inner riches. From the 14th to the 16th centuries, bright frescoes were painted in churches to teach the scriptures to illiterate peasants. Some of the best remaining examples are found at Notre-Dame de Bon-Coeur in Lucéram, and at Notre-Dame des Fontaines in La Brigue.

Most of the highest mountains are in the Mercantour National Park, which was created in 1979 to protect rare species such as wolves, ibex and bearded vultures. High lakes and alpine meadows create a summer idyll, while in the Vallée des Merveilles (Valley of Marvels) thousands of rock engravings date from the Bronze Age.

Walks for all
Marked trails ensure safe and scenic walks around many of the coastal headlands, such as the Maeterlinck Path on the Cap de Nice, the Tirepoil Way on the Cap d’Antibes, and a tour of the Lérins islands of Cannes.

Day-long inland walks allow some of the back country to be discovered as a break from a lazy beach holiday. It is these inner regions that offer most to the walker. About 4,000km of marked trails are kept up by local councils, which have also installed 3,500 signposts. Each of these has a reference number which can be found on the local walking maps, making it hard to become lost. Paint marks on trees and rocks help to show the correct way – yellow denotes a shorter walk, while red and white is used for the GR long-distance routes. The regional council also produces two booklets on the middle country and the highlands, each with sixty suggested walks. The routes are described in detail, with advice on maps, the climbs and descents involved, and the level of difficulty. For overnight stays, there are hotels or inns in most of the mountain settlements, along with gîtes d’étape, simple, cheap hostels. In the higher mountains, refuges d’altitude are mountain huts only reachable by foot.

Long-distance hikes
No fewer than six GR routes cross the region. The GR 4 begins in Grasse and offers three days walking through the Alpes-Maritimes before moving on to the Alpes de Haute Provence. The last section of the Amsterdam–Nice GR 5 heads south, at times passing through wild mountains, at times through calm scenery and finishing with a plunge down the steep cliffs to Nice. The GR 52 is a four or five day hike from St-Dalmas to Menton that passes over the Boréon peak and the Valley of Marvels before following the Italian border to the coast.

The GR 51, the Balcons de la Méditerranée, and the GR 52, the Panoramique du Mercantour (Mercantour Panorama) offer contrasting scenery. Running along the seaside mountains, the GR 51 gives splendid views over the empty countryside to the north, the urban mass along the coast, and the glittering sea. The GR 52 from Tende to Colmars passes along the southern edge of the Mercantour National Park.

Finally, the GR 510, the Sentier des Huit Vallées, follows old tracks that once linked rural hamlets. From Breil-sur-Roya to St-Cézaire, the path enters the Roya, Bévéra, Vésubie, Tinée, Cians, Var, Estéron and Siagne valleys. Little known, the trail is usually deserted, ideal for discovering the perched villages in solitude.

Heat
July and August are far too hot to enjoy hiking and the Riviera will be swarming. May, June and September offer the best walking conditions and fewer crowds. Most walks in the middle country can be undertaken between March and November, some even being suitable all year round.

© Walk Europe
Walk Europe is a guidebook which provides holiday ideas for single travellers, couples, families and groups of all ages and abilities.

Holiday companies in this region

Spacebetween operate in the Mercantour, a stunning part of the region. Visit the Spacebetween website

Ulric and Ruth Jessop have gite accommodation all year round for walkers and a website with a wealth of information. They are based near St Auban. Visit their website

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