KARKONOSZE NATIONAL PARK

The Karkonosze have in the past suffered from pollution and intensive tourism. The lower slopes have been worst affected and it is only on the mountain tops that the natural ecosystems have remained unsullied.

The Karkonosze form the highest section of the Sudeten mountain chain which stretches from north-west to south-east along the Polish–Czech border. The national park, which covers 55 sq km, was established in 1959 to protect the area’s glacial geomorphological features, as well as the flora and fauna associated with the peaks, peat bogs and heavily forested lower slopes. The Czech side is also protected (Krkonose National Park) and the two meet on the central mountain ridge which acts as the international border.

Hidden treasures After initially being lifted by tectonic activity, the granitic rock of the Sudeten belt was eroded and shaped during subsequent ice ages to form the present landscape. Underground, there are rich deposits of precious stones. The Karkonosze contain amethysts and rock crystal, whilst quartz, chrysoprase, garnets and sapphires are found nearby. Metal ores were mined in the Middle Ages and the observant prospector may still find a grain or two of gold in the rivers.

The main ridge runs between Mt Szrenica (1,362m) in the west and Mt Sniezka (1,602m) in the east, with deep glacial cirques sitting snugly just beneath the rim on the Polish side. Now empty, apart from small lakes, the cirques were the birthplace of the local glaciers that moulded the steep valleys, cutting off side streams to form hanging valleys and waterfalls. On the ridge itself, the bare summits rise out of the blanket bogs, along with isolated rocky outcrops named by locals as ‘The Pilgrims’, ‘The Sunflower’ and ‘The Beads’.

Spruce forests Because of its harsh climate, the Karkonosze has well defined ecological zones not usually found at these relatively low altitudes. The lower slopes are heavily forested with planted spruce. A band of dwarf pine follows at 1,250m, gradually replaced by exposed moorlands and sub-alpine peat bogs interspersed with peaks.

Around 900 plant species have been documented in the park including a number of endangered endemics and relicts from glacial periods. These are supplemented by a profusion of lichens, mosses and fungi. Mammals and birds are typical of forested, mountainous areas, although the moufflon (a variety of big-horned sheep) were only introduced from Corsica in the early 20th century.

Wang Chapel Jelenia Góra is the capital of the region and a good staging post for a trip to the Karkonosze. Founded in the 12th century, the town became an important textile centre in the 16th and 17th centuries. The old town is centred on the fine merchant houses, built in Renaissance and Baroque styles, which surround Market Square. Chojnik Hill, south-west of the town, is home to the park headquarters and a museum.

Next to the park itself are the resort villages of Karpacz and Szklarska Poreba. The main feature of the former is the splendidly curious Wang Chapel. Shaped like an oriental temple, the timber structure was built in Norway in the late 13th century and brought to its present site in the 19th century by King Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prussia.

Walking routes The weather in the Karkonosze is variable at the best of times. There is a metre of snow on the higher ground for at least six months of the year and often through into April. For this reason the late spring and summer are preferable for walking, although even then be prepared for all sorts. Rain or mist can sweep in at any point without much warning.

There are several hundred kilometres of hiking routes in the park, with Karpacz and Szklarska Poreba being the starting points for most ascents into the mountains. Chairlifts operate all year and ski lifts in winter, but the well-marked trails are what it’s all about. The trek up from Szklarska Poreba to the summit of Szrenica, in the west of the park, will take between three and four hours; whilst Karpacz up to Sniezka, at the eastern end, takes between two and three hours. At Sniezka there is the 15th century Chapel of St Laurentius, as well a meteorological observatory built in the 1960s.

The best high route is the ridge walk between Szrenica and Sniezka, skirting the peat bogs and overlooking six glacial cirques. Suitable for walking in either direction, it is a six to eight hour hike. Adding on the ascent and descent, the route can be completed in a long day. Alternatively it is possible to use the chairlifts at either end or to break overnight at one of the several mountain huts in the park.

Human pressures The Karkonosze are under considerable pressure. The south-west of Poland is densely populated and the park is a popular summer and winter tourist destination. Over 2.5 million people visit every year, mainly from Poland and Germany, and this has had a detrimental impact despite the strict controls on activity and development within the protected area.

The other problem is pollution. Acid rain from the industrial belts of southern Poland, the former East Germany and what was Czechoslovakia has damaged many of the trees. Although atmospheric emissions have fallen since the collapse of the Communist regimes, it will take many years before the forests are revived. At the moment, weakened trees killed by beetles are left standing to prevent soil erosion, a grim reminder of how human activity in one area can adversely affect the natural environment in another.

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