KURSIU NERIJA AND ZEMAITIJA

Shifting dunes and spreading forests; the waves of the Baltic and placid lakes; pagan rituals and Catholic pilgrimages. All are found together in north-west Lithuania.

Since the French National Institute of Geography recently decreed the centre of Europe to be a few kilometres from their capital city of Vilnius, Lithuanians have considered themselves to be at the core of the continent. This is as good an excuse as any to discover the who, what, where, when and whys of the country.

Kursiu Nerija and Zemaitija are excellent starting points for an active holiday, being recreational centres as well as having remits to protect their differing natural landscapes and cultural histories.

Kursiu Nerija National Park Kursiu Nerija, which is also known as the Curonian Spit, is a sliver of land that runs parallel to the bottom half of the Lithuanian coastline. Separating the Curonian lagoon from the Baltic Sea, the thin peninsula continues south into the Russian territory of Kaliningrad. Some 264 sq km of the Lithuanian section, two thirds of which is water, was given national park status in 1991.

Kursiu Nerija is officially the sunniest place in the country, and with its long beaches is a popular destination in July and August. Fortunately, because of the strict controls on development, it is never overcrowded. Snow cover from late November to February means ice fishing on the lagoon is a popular winter pastime.

Klaipeda, the country’s third largest city, is the usual departure point for a trip to the national park. Situated on the mainland, just 0.5km from the northern end of the spit, the city’s history is like many of those in the Baltic States. A fortress built by the Knights of the Livonian Order; growth as a trading port (although Gdansk’s merchants apparently took offence at the thought of the competition and tried to block the harbour entrance); and the resultant wealth displayed in the architecture of the old city. Klaipeda remains a pleasant place to stop before catching the ferry, its history buoyed by a strong local economy centred on its year-round ice-free port.

A changing landscape The spit is a transitory landscape; it is not old in geological terms and is continually being manipulated by the sea and the wind. It is probably only the combined efforts of naturalists and engineers that have preserved the dunes in their present state, although around 10 hectares are still lost every year to erosion.

Formed about 5,500 years ago, the sand dunes were stabilised by forests of pine, oak and lime. Early inhabitants fished in the sea and hunted in the forests. By the 16th century, however, population pressure had lead to deforestation. As the trees disappeared, the winds caused havoc, burying fourteen villages beneath the shifting sand.

Remedial action was not taken for another 200 years until a man named G.D. Cuvert began a replanting programme. Since accelerated and supplemented by the building of a protective barrier, it was Cuvert’s initial action that saved the spit. He is commemorated in the town of Nida.

Sand and wood The bare dunes create a beautiful landscape and, for such an empty place, the senses are continually stimulated. Sand can glitter under the summer sun or the reflected light can dazzle; the wind whistles as it whips through the shallow valleys; and the heat retained by the dunes makes them feel warmer than anticipated, especially in the autumn.

In contrast, the forests which cover nearly three quarters of the park are rich in plant and animal species. Mountain and common pine dominate, although there also areas of birch, alder, oak and ash. The shaded undergrowth is home to elk, deer, wild boar, badgers and raccoons.

However, it is the bird-life which is most impressive. Over 15 million birds pass through Kursiu Nerija each year in the spring and autumn migrations between the White Sea and the western Baltic. Wintering species include velvet scoters, long-tailed ducks, goosanders and common goldeneyes, whilst there is a mixed summer colony of 1,500 pairs of grey herons and cormorants.

Life on the spit For such a narrow strip of land the spit has a surprising depth of human history which is reflected in the summer festivals and various museums that dot the area. The Baltic coast is a good place to find amber and pieces are often washed up on the beaches. Whilst mining a rich seam during the late 19th century, hundreds of amber figurines were found. Dated to around 4,000 years ago, these carved figures are thought to have been part of a sacrificial site at Juodkrant§e.

Fishing has traditionally been an important activity at Kursiu Nerija. The fishermen’s log cottages with their vertical exterior planking and daubed paintwork have been preserved. There are also examples of the flat-bottomed boats made from oak which were still being used on the lagoon up until the 1950s.

The main rhythm to life on the spit nowadays is generated by the holiday season. As well as sunbathing, visitors can sail, windsurf, fish, horse-ride or cycle. Walking paths link the settlements, and trails through the forests are popular for mushroom and berry picking. The best places to see the dunes and wildlife is on a guided tour in the protected nature reserves.

Kursiu Nerija’s status as a holiday destination is not a new phenomenon. Thomas Mann, the Nobel Prize winning German author, spent his summers here from 1930-2. His brief stays are honoured annually with a programme of readings, film, music and art exhibitions.

Zemaitija National Park Zemaitija lies 60km to the north-east of Klaipeda in Lithuania’s highlands. The park was established in 1991 and extends over 217 sq km, the majority of which is pine, spruce and birch forest. As well as conserving the natural and cultural landscape, the park has a recreational focus with visitors spending much of their time along the shores of Lake Plateliai.

Zemaitija’s undulating landscape – the hills reach 190m which is sufficient in the lowlands of the Baltic to warrant the term ‘highland’ – is crossed with streams. Formed by receding glaciers at the end of the last Ice Age, one of the notable features of the area is the large number of boulders deposited by melting ice. At Mosedis, near to the park, many of the rocks have been brought together to form an open air geology museum. The largest example, the huge Barstyciai Stone, was too big to move, whilst a stone with its own ‘Devil’s footprint’ remains at Mikytai.

Lake Plateliai The lake is usually the starting point for a visit to the park. A peaceful place, thick forests reach the edge of the calm waters, whilst the solitude of hidden bays gives rise to folk-tales of secret meetings and doomed trysts. As well as eels, crawfish and marsh turtles, Plateliai contains species of salmon and lavaret that have remained isolated in the lake since the glacial retreat. Near or on the lake are found black-throated divers, red-breasted mersangers and curlews. Organised excursions are a good introduction to the shy inhabitants of the forest – elk, deer, wild boar, hare, lynx and fox.

Samogitians to Soviets This north-western part of the country has always been connected with the Samogitian people. Despite being incorporated into the original state of Lithuania in the 13th century, the Samogitians remained a separate ethnic group. Protected from assimilation by a strong unifying culture and their own language, it is their history that forms one of the most interesting historical aspects of the park. Culturally isolated, the Samogitians were one of the last peoples in Europe to abandon paganism. Their acceptance of Catholicism has been ascribed to its emphasis on ritual, and the roadside crosses and shrines in the park show a mixture of religious symbols.

Zemaiciu Kalvarija is a small town in the north-east of Zemaitija. It rose to prominence in the 17th century when the local bishop established an abbey. The monks built nineteen chapels illustrating Christ’s journey with the cross from Jerusalem to Calvary. An annual pilgrimage follows the route every July. St John’s Hill, where the town’s original castle stood, has excellent views over the area.

Finally, for something a little different, there is the chance to visit a Soviet missile base. The site houses a military museum and the missile shafts are open to visitors. To complete the experience it is possible to stay overnight in the barracks.

© National Parks Europe
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