Caithness

Far to the north of Scotland lies Caithness, often known as the lowlands beyond the Highlands. Dunnet Head, the most northerly point on the UK mainland at 58° 40′ 21″ N latitude and 3° 22′ 31″ W longitude, is further north than Moscow and parts of Alaska, and 1 degree latitude further north than the most northerly point of the Danish mainland, Skagen.

120 miles north of Inverness, this far flung corner often gets overlooked by visitors, which is a great pity, as there is a wealth of archaeology, history, wildlife, visitor attractions, accommodation, restaurants, and above all great walking and facilities for the great outdoors in general.
The population is about 30,000, mainly based around Thurso and Wick, but there are many outlying villages such as Halkirk (one of Scotland´s first planned villages), Dunnet (a great centre for recreation) and of course John o'Groats, the destination for many walkers and cyclists in their quest for the end to end journey from Land's End.

Thurso's wealth has, for the last 50 years, been derived from the presence of the nuclear power station at Dounreay, currently being decommissioned. Ferries from Scandanavia, Orkney and Shetland call at Scrabster, the port beside Thurso, and an increasing number of cruise liners also call in during the summer months.

Wick is a more typical northern town, with its history stretching back to Viking and medieval times. The town's herring industry in the 1800s and the influence of Thomas Telford put Wick on the map, but it has been somewhat neglected since the demise of the former. The town is now being regenerated with investment in a new harbour and the Pulteneytown area, which is home to the local distillery by the same name.

The walking

Caithness caters for all kinds of walker. From the highest peak of Morven (2315ft), to three miles of golden beach at Dunnet, and forest walks in Rumster Forest, there is something for everyone.

For easy walks, visit Achvarasdal Woods at Reay, NewtonHill Community Woodland at Wick, or Dunnet Forest at Dunnet. The Forestry Commission forests at Rumster (Caithness) and Borgie (Sutherland) also offer easy terrain and have a wealth of wildlife, birdlife and archaeology.

For moderate walks, try Dunnet Head and some of the coastal routes. The North Sea Trail, which offers a route around the periphery of the North Sea, has a section on the Moray Firth and has some great circular walks.

For more challenging terrain, try Morven (left), Scaraben, or Maiden's Pap.


Favourite walks

Dunnet Head – there are no marked footpaths on Dunnet Head, but there are a number of walks on Walkingworld covering the area in detail. See walks 3713, 3756, 4337,4430, 4444, 4445, 4446.

Loch More in the hinterland which offers 20 miles of forest-grade tracks. You can alight from the train at Altnabreach and walk down to Halkirk, time trains permitting.

Favourite aspects of area

The wide open spaces, lots of sky, plethora of wildlife and birdlife are all part of this wonderful part of Scotland. The auroras of the night skies, the sunsets and sunrises can be magnificent.

Where to stay

The area offers a wide range of accommodation from hotels and guest houses, to good quality bed & breakfasts and hostels.

Recommended restaurants are the Creag na Mara Bistro, Mey, which specialises in local produce and has a wide range of dishes. Open evenings Easter to September.

Captain's Galley (Thurso) specialises in fish, the food is excellent. Open all year.

St. Clair Arms (owner Andy MacKay is a walkingworld member).

Other outdoor activities

Wildlife watching, horse riding, surfing, cycling, fishing, paintballing

Other points of interest

Castle of Mey
Mary Ann's Cottage
Dunnet Head
John o Groats
RSPB Forsinard (just over the border in Sutherland)
Flow Country
Wick Heritage Centre
Sinclair and Girnigoe castles – which are currently being renovated in a multi-million pound project.
The RSPB now manage Easter Head on Dunnet Head

Getting there

By air, there are flights into Wick from Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Kirkwall (Orkney Islands). There are connections to Wick from Aberdeen originating in Norwich, Teeside, East Midlands, Leeds Bradford, Bristol, Southampton, Stornaway, Cardiff and Humberside. Alternatively, fly from Gatwick or Luton to Inverness, and drive from there.

By road, the main trunk road, the A9, from Inverness leads north along the coast, one of the most spectacular journeys you will ever drive, passing through picturesque villages such as Helmsdale and Berridale. Enjoy the Berridale Braes – a driving experience in themselves!

By train - Three trains a day leave Inverness to travel the 4 hours to Thurso or Wick. Again the scenery is stupendous as you travel along the coast to Helmsdale, and then across the famous Flow Country, now a National Nature Reserve.

By bus – Enjoy a relaxing 3 hour bus journey around the little villages of the Moray Firth and along the coast.

Tourist and travel information

All of the Tourist Information Offices in the area are seasonal only – Easter to September:
Thurso Tourist Information Office, Riverside, Thurso (operated by VisitScotland)
Riverside
Caithness
Thurso
Highlands and Islands
Scotland
KW14 8BU
Tel: 01845 22 55 121
Email: info@visitscotland.com
Web: http://www.visithighlands.com

John o Groats Tourist Information (privately run)
Tel: 01845 22 55 121
Email: info@visitscotland.com
Web: http://www.visithighlands.com

Wick Tourist Information Office, based in MacAllen's men's shop, High Street, Wick (privately run)
Tel: 01845 22 55 121

Maps

Ordnance Survey Land Ranger maps LR12 and LR10
Ordnance Survey Explorer maps 451 and 450

Tina Irving (Caledonian Iberian ConeXions)

Visit the the far north with the Dunnet Head Educational Trust: Visit the website

Photos:
1. Brough Bay, Dunnet Head – Tina Irving
2. Wick Harbour – Bill Fernie
3. Climbing Morven – Caithness & Sutherland Walking Festival 2004 – Noel Donaldson